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Have You Ever Wondered How Diamonds Are Cut?

Like most people, you are probably thinking:

If diamonds are the hardest substance on earth, where do engagement rings come from and how are the diamonds cut to make jewelry?

Actually, the process is unique and quite exciting. But before we get into the details, the experts from your local M.I. Trading will go over a few of the basics.

Diamond Cutting – Where It All Began

First thing first, diamond cutting is simply the method used to turn a rough stone into a beautifully shaped diamond that we see in stores. The first professional diamond cutters emerged in Nuremberg, Germany in 1375 and the process started advancing later in the 2nd half of the 14th Century.

Today, the process has become much more advanced. Special equipment used by highly trained specialists is required to cut such precious stones. Therefore, only a few select locations throughout the world are equipped with the tools and trained technicians needed to correctly cut diamonds. These places include Antwerp, India, Tel Aviv, New York City and China.

Before we continue, be sure to check out our website for more information about our diamond selling process.

And now, onto the more intriguing stuff!

The 5 Steps To The Diamond Cutting Process

The process of cutting a diamond is a fascinating journey that transforms a rough diamond mined from deep within the earth into a dazzling gem ready to be set into a stunning engagement ring or fine jewelry. This intricate procedure involves expert craftsmanship and precise techniques to maximize the diamond’s value while maintaining its natural beauty. Let’s explore the key steps in the diamond cutting process and how a professional diamond cutter achieves the perfect balance of brilliance and scintillation.

#1 Planning: The Foundation of Diamond Cutting

Planning is the first and most critical stage in the art of diamond cutting. To ensure the maximum yield and minimize waste, a professional diamond cutter carefully examines the rough stone to determine the best diamond shape and cutting strategy.

How is this done?

The diamond cutting process often begins with the use of advanced technology. A Sarin machine maps the crystal structure of the diamond rough, creating detailed measurements of its natural lines of weakness, inclusions, and potential facet locations. Using this data, specialized software generates a 3D model of the rough diamond. This helps the cutter decide how to achieve a good diamond while optimizing the size of the diamond and its eventual brilliance. For instance, determining whether a marquise cut, emerald cut, or asscher cut is ideal depends on the diamond’s unique characteristics.

#2 Cleaving and Sawing: Separating the Rough Stone

Once the planning is complete, the diamond rough is prepared for separation through a process known as cleaving or sawing. This step involves splitting the raw stone into manageable pieces that can be further refined.

What’s the difference?

Cleaving is performed by cutting along the natural lines of weakness within the diamond’s crystal structure. These lines are typically along the octahedral shape, the point where the diamond requires the least force to split. However, some diamonds cannot be cleaved due to the absence of these lines. In such cases, a steel blade or laser is used to cut the diamond. This precision work demands years of experience, as one wrong move can shatter the gem.

For diamonds without natural lines of weakness, sawing becomes necessary. Using advanced cutting equipment like lasers, the cutter carefully separates the rough stone, ensuring minimal damage to the valuable material. This process is crucial for maintaining the value of the finished diamond.

#3 Bruting: Shaping the Diamond

The next step is bruting, also known as girdling. This stage involves shaping the rough diamond into its basic form, whether a cushion cut, marquise cut, or another popular shape. The goal of bruting is to create the rounded edges and symmetry that will define the diamond’s final shape.

Handwork vs. Machines

Traditionally, bruting was done by hand using a lathe and another diamond to cut the diamond, as diamonds are the hardest natural substance. Today, machines are often used for greater precision. This ensures that the proportions and facet symmetry are perfect, creating the foundation for a well-cut diamond that will reflect light beautifully. Whether performed by hand or machine, bruting is an essential step in achieving the shape of the diamond.

#4 Polishing: Bringing the Diamond to Life

Polishing is where the diamond truly comes to life, gaining its iconic sparkle. The diamond is cut and refined further by placing it on the arm of a rotating polishing wheel coated with diamond powder. The abrasive diamond powder smooths the facets of the stone, enhancing its brilliance and scintillation.

The Role of Precision

This step requires the utmost care to ensure each facet is polished to perfection. The cut is the most important factor in a diamond’s brilliance, and even a minor error in the angles or symmetry can affect its ability to reflect light. For example, the popular diamond shapes like marquise and emerald require exact proportions to achieve their signature appearance.

#5 Inspection: Evaluating the Finished Gem

The final step is the inspection process, where the gem is meticulously examined to ensure it meets the highest standards of quality. The diamond is cleaned in acids to remove any residue, then assessed for its proportions and facet symmetry, colorless clarity, and carat weight.

The Role of the GIA

At this stage, many diamonds are sent to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or similar organizations for grading. The GIA evaluates the diamond based on the 4 Cs: cut, clarity, color, and carat weight. These factors, along with current diamond market trends, determine the diamond’s value. A well-inspected and graded diamond will command a higher price, whether it’s set into a piece of jewelry or sold as a loose gem.

The Art and Craftsmanship Behind Every Diamond

The transformation from a mine-extracted diamond rough to a polished gem involves exceptional craftsmanship and attention to detail. Each step, from planning and cleaving or sawing to polish and inspection, plays a vital role in creating a quality diamond. The result is a breathtaking gem with the perfect facet symmetry, ready to be cherished in a piece of fine jewelry or a stunning engagement ring.

Whether you’re considering the shape of a diamond or its value of the finished product, the process of cutting a diamond is truly a testament to human ingenuity and the enduring allure of these magnificent gemstones.

This process can take hours and requires years of experience. 

In this post, we have broken down the diamond cutting steps into the simplest possible terms. In reality, become a diamond cutter requires years of education and practice. Diamond cutting schools where one can learn and become certified include:

• American Institute of Diamond Cutting, Inc. – USA
• Corlia Roberts Diamond Education College – South Africa
• Aurora College – Canada

Don’t forget…

If you are interested in selling your diamonds in the Austin Texas area, contact M.I. Trading to ensure that you receive the best price for your precious stones.